S B 



m 



LIBRARY OF CONGRE! 



a No. 



S UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, g 



A 



PRACTICAL TREATISE 

ON THE 

CULTURE OF THE VINE, 

AS WELL UNDER GLASS AS IN THE OPEN AIR. 
BY 

JOHN SANDERS. 




LONDON : 
EEEVE AND BENHAM, 
5, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN. 



1851. 



t 

I 



TO 

THE FOLLOWING 

TREATISE ON THE CULTURE OF THE YINE 

IS EESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, 
AS A 

HUMBLE TRIBUTE TO HIS ENLIGHTENED AND LIBERAL 
ENCOURAGEMENT OF THE SCIENCE OF 

^ottmltxm; 

AND ALSO AS A THANKFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT FOR THE 
NUMEROUS BENEFITS WHICH, 
DURING NEARLY TWENTY YEARS PASSED IN HIS SERVICE, 
HE HAS CONFERRED 
ON HIS GRATEFUL AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, 

THE AUTHOE. 

Tedworth, May \st, 1851. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

DESCRIPTION OF PLATES ix 

INTRODUCTION xiii 

Chapter I. —CULTURE OF THE VINE UNDER GLASS .... 1 

Chapter II. —CULTURE OF THE MUSCAT GRAPE ...... 15 

Chapter III.— CULTURE OF THE VINE IN THE OPEN AIR . . 23 

Chapter IV.— CULTURE OF THE VINE IN POTS 26 



DIRECTIONS TO BINDER. 



PLATES I,, II., III., and IV., before Page 1 

PLATES V. and VI. before Page 15 

PLATE VII. before Page 23 

PLATES VIII. and IX. before Page 26 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 



Plates I., II., III., and IV. 

PLAN OF DOUBLE-FRONTED WALL HOUSE FOR GRAPES AND OTHER 
PURPOSES, AS EXPLAINED IN CHAPTER I. 



Plate I. 

Exterior End Section. 

a. Pillar. 
/; b. Pront lights. 

c. Wrought -iron tie bar. 

d. Hollow space for vine-stems. 

e. Door-way. 

f. Gutter to carry off the rain-water. 

Plate II. 

Front Elevation, 

a. Concrete to prevent the roots from descending into the 
subsoil. 

h. Brickbats for drainage. 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 



Plate III. 

Ground Plan. 

a. Pillar. 

h h. Walls whereon to carry the front lights. 
c c c. Pathway. 
d d. Walls dividing the paths from the pit. 
e. Pit for growing various plants. 

Plate lY. 

Interior End Section, with Sited for Boiler. 

a. Pillar. 
h h. Pront lights. 

c. Hollow space for vine-stems. 

d. Shelf for plants. 

e. Small pillar for support of the above shelf. 
Hot-water pipes. 

(J. Pit wherein to grow various plants. 
li. Back path. 
i. Pront path. 

h. Gutter to carry off rain-water. 

I. Shed for boiler, &c., and for growing mushrooms, &c. 
m. Gutter. 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 



XI 



Plates V. and VI. 

PLAN or HOUSE FOR MUSCAT GRAPES (SEE CHAPTER II.). 

Plate V. 

Interior End Section. 

a a. Vines pruned and trained in readiness for forcing. 

h. Border for the vines^ roots. 

c. Brickbats for drainage. 

cl. Concrete. 
e e. Hot-water pipes. 
ff. Iron support for the pipes. 

g~. Gutter to carry off rain-water. 
h h. Wire to train the vines. 

/. Path. 

Plate VI. 

G-round Plan. 

a a. Vines. 
h Jj. Border. 
c c. Base of arches. 
e. Path. 

Plate VIL 
showing vines as grown in the open air. 
a a. Showing vines in fuU bearing. 

h h. Showing them after the crop has been cleared^ and the 
vines pruned ready for future bearing. 
c. Border. 
d d. Galvanized nails for training vines. 



Xll 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 



Plates YIII. and IX. 

PLAN OF A HOUSE FOR GROWING VINES IN POTS AND TROUGHS. 



Plate VIII. 

Interior End Sectioia. 

a a. Troughs for the vines. 

h h. Cavity formed with bricks and laths for drainage. 
c c. Iron bar and pillar for support of trough. 
d d. Yines. 

e e. Shelves for growing a succession of young vines. 

Pit for propagating or growing various plants. 
g g. Hot-water pipes. 
li li. Wire to which the vines are trained. 

i. Back path. 
h h. Steps leading from back to front path. 
I. Pront path. 
m. Gutter. 

Plate IX. 

Ground Plan. 

a a. Troughs. 
h b. Laths. 

c c. Open cavity for water to pass off. 

d. Back path. 

e. Pront path. 

/. Pit for propagating or growing various plants. 
9' Steps. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Nullam, Yare, sacra ^'ite prius sevens arborem. 

Hoe. Ode xviii. 

The early history of the vine is involved in obscurity. 
Many people consider its native country to be Syria ; but 
this appears exceedingly doubtful. It has been supposed 
that the vine was trained and reared by the hand of 
man almost immediately after the subsiding of the great 
waters of the deluge, as we find recorded in the 
9th chapter of Genesis, that " Noah began to be an 
husbandman, and planted a vineyard." 

The early cultivation of the vine in Egypt is proved by 
the paintings on the ancient tombs. We have no account 
of its introduction into Greece, where it evidently flou- 
rished before the time of Homer ; and it is supposed to 
have been introduced somewhat later into Italy, and 
spread from thence through the north of Europe, and into 
Great Britain, as the venerable Bede, writing in 731, 
makes mention of several vineyards. At that period they 
were generally attached to monastic institutions; sub- 
sequently, however, the monks and the vineyards, in a 



XIV 



raTRODUCTlON. 



great measure, disappeared together. After a time the 
grape-vine again made its appearance, and might be seen 
not only about the abodes of the rich, but gracing many 
a cottage home in the southern provinces of England, 
affording a source of emolument, as well as of pleasure. 
But, though much cultivated, it is rare that grapes are 
found to ripen properly in the open air, in our high 
latitude and clouded skies. The forcing system of cul- 
tivating grapes, by means of artificial heat, was then 
resorted to, and, when properly managed, fruit the most 
delicious in all the world may be thus procured. The 
author of the following pages has no intention, even if he 
had the ability, of adding one to the many elaborate 
treatises written upon this subject. His desire is only 
to lay down general, comprehensive, and practical rules, 
which he has worked out and tested for himself, and to 
which he would fain draw the attention of others. A few 
simple plans, also the result of experience, which he trusts 
will be found generally useful to others, are here offered 
to their notice. All conventional terms, and words fami- 
liar alone to the horticultmist, are studiously avoided ; 
and the advice of Cobbett has been attended to, namely, 
that, in teaching any science, we should avoid using 
scientific expressions beyond the understanding of the 
unlearned, and endeavour to teach our readers from what 
they do already know that which they dio not know. 



A 

TREATISE 

ON THE 

CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



CHAPTEE I. 

CULTUKE OF THE VINE UNDER GLASS. 

In selecting a site for a vinery, choose a southern aspect, and as 
elevated a spot as convenient. It is most desirable that it should 
be so situated, as it ensures many advantages by standing on high 
ground. It not only commands more light, air, and sun, all of 
which are of the most vital importance, but it also escapes much 
of that pernicious damp which always settles on the lower ground, 
acting most prejudicially on the health and purity of the spot; 
and, in consequence, the borders, in low situations, frequently 
become both sour and sodden, from the difficulty there is in 
obtaining a sufficient declivity to carry off the superabundant 
moisture. I would, therefore, always recommend that, in building 
a house for grapes, it should occupy a spot sufficiently elevated to 
prevent the necessity of digging deeply. The advantages to be 
gained by carrying out these suggestions must, I think, be suf- 
ficiently obvious to recommend themselves ; for in very many 
cases houses of long standing occupy low situations, and therefore, 
in order to secure a proper declivity to carry off all superfluous 

B 



2 



A TREATISE ON THE 



wet, a very considerable excavation must necessarily be made, or 
the border can never be properly drained. 

Having said thus much relative to the situation, I now proceed 
to the erection of the grape-house ; and as every grape-grower is 
fully aware of the difficulty in protecting the stems of vines, 
planted in outside borders, from the frost during the progress of 
early forcing (and even at a later period of the spring they often 
receive injury from the same cause), I have presented a plan for 
a vinery, which I feel assured will not only remedy that evil, but 
will also possess other advantages, which will be better explained 
as I proceed. 

The house should be placed on arches, with a double wall upon 
them, extending along the front of the building (as shown in the 
Plate), and a space or cavity of five inches to be allowed between 
the walls, with a plating along the top of each, and a groove to 
receive the upright lights, thus making them to slide, instead of 
opening with hinges. It may be argued, that this plan of erection 
would not only be more expensive, but that the double walls would 
present a heavy, unsightly appearance. In reply to this, I hope 
to prove that the great convenience and utility secured thereby 
will more than counterbalance any little disadvantages, more parti- 
cularly as, I think, the heavy appearance would be much less 
increased by the plan than may on first view of the subject be 
imagined ; as, for instance, a single wall would of necessity require 
to be nine inches thick, whereas in this case each one would be 
four inches, thus the increase of width would only be the five 
inches of space left between the two walls, and any deficiency of 
strength could be amply suppHed by wood or brick ties. It may, 
perhaps, be unnecessary to say more, as all other particulars are 
fully pointed out in the building plan. I will, therefore, proceed 
with my next subject, viz., the border. This should be at least 
sixteen feet in width, three-and-a-half in depth, including drain- 
age, &c. And, first, the higher side of it which abuts the vinery 
should, when the border is entirely finished, be exactly on a level 
with the interior flooring ; and that being the criterion as to the 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 3 

height, the necessary calculations for the depth required to render 
it so must be made before the foundation of the border is com- 
menced, and the ground should be prepared accordingly, always 
remembering to preserve from the beginning the proper declivity, 
not less than eighteen inches from the house to the front of the 
border, and to have the surface of the ground quite smooth 
before laying the foundation over it, which must be done as 
follows : — Spread concrete to the depth of four inches, and when 
sufficiently hard, upon that put eight inches of brickbats; and 
next form a drain, extending along the front edge of the border, 
to receive and carry off all superfluous moisture. Having com- 
pleted this portion of the process, place two layers of sods, each 
to be about fourteen inches long, one foot wide, and six or seven 
inches thick ; cut from pasture which has been lying undisturbed 
for some years, and which ought to be of a fibrous, rich, loamy 
substance ; not too retentive of moisture, but yet of that adhesive 
nature termed " strong loam." The great recommendation is for 
the soil to contain much of the fibrous matter, for the twofold 
reason, that it prevents the soil from becoming sodden, as well 
as giving nourishment to the vine-roots, as the grass and other 
vegetable matters decay. It is not, however, possible at all times 
to follow out this rule, as every locality has its own peculiar soil, 
varying in density and colour ; therefore much must be left to the 
judgment of the cultivator. Arrange each sod with the grass-side 
downwards, for the hollow spaces formed between the layers, as 
well as assisting the drainage, will prove beneficial to the roots. 
The remaining depth of the border should be filled up with the 
following compost : — two parts of rough turfy loam, similar in 
quality to the sods placed below, and cut in pieces two or three 
inches square ; one part of well-decomposed farm-yard manure, 
and the remaining fourth part composed of equal quantities of 
droppings from the sheep-fold and leaf-mould; let all be well 
mixed together, adding a little sand if the loam be deficient of it. 
Choose a dry time for preparing the whole, as much depends on 
its being well mixed in good working order. When it is thus 

B 2 



4 



A TREATISE ON THE 



prepared, suffer this mixture to lie in a heap for a month or two 
before using it, and let it be occasionally turned, so that it may 
become thoroughly amalgamated. It will be necessary to give it 
some shelter from the drencliing rain, either in an open shed, or 
other convenient protection, not excluding it from the action of 
the air. 

In spreading the border with the sods, and also with the above 
compost, great care must be taken to avoid trampling it, which 
can be done by laying a plank down for the workman^s footsteps. 
By so doing the sods will be preserved in theij; rough unbroken 
state, which is most desirable ; and the whole border will settle 
gradually of itself, and the surface will be smooth and even. In 
preparing this compost, take care to have plenty, so that there 
may be a reserve in case of casualties ; you are thus certain of 
having precisely the same mixture, if it should be required, which 
would be preferable in all respects to a strange compost being 
added. The border, when entirely completed, should remain un- 
disturbed a week or ten days, and in the course of that time it 
will, doubtless, settle down more or less ; and if it be found to 
have sunk below the desired level, it can easily be raised with a 
little of the superabundant compost. 

As the health and fruitfulness of all vegetable productions 
mainly depend on the state of the roots, it must be evident that 
no crop can arrive at perfection unless they be in good order; 
consequently it wiU at once be seen how necessary it must be to 
supply them with whatever is most congenial to them. Now, as 
scarcely any two sorts of fruit-trees thrive equally well in one and 
the same compost, I am (in order to make the necessary distinc- 
tion) the more particular in endeavouring to point out, as clearly 
as I can, the method and soil which I have, in the course of my 
experience, found to answer best for the growth of grapes ; and 
having completed these directions for making the border, it may 
be as well, before proceeding with the planting, to offer a few 
general remarks on the different kinds of grapes most worthy of 
cultivation. 



CULTUEE OF THE VINE. 



5 



Amougst the best varieties grown^ there is^, perhaps^ none that 
excels the Bkck Hamburgh for general hot-house purposes^ the 
quality and flavour of which is so universally known and approved 
that it would be superfluous to say much on the subject. There 
are also many other kinds well worth cultivation ; amongst them^ 
the Erontignac^ ATest St. Peters^ Black Prince, and Sweet TVater; 
all of which thrive equally well under one and the same treatment, 
wliich is not the case with the ^Muscats. I will, therefore, refer 
to these latter hereafter, and proceed at once with the above- 
named sorts, which are procui'able at any nursery, ready for 
planting, at a moderate expense. And here I would recommend 
that the selection be always made from those grown from eyes 
instead of layers, as the former, in their growth, are found to be 
more close-jointed, and also to produce finer fruit than the latter. 
In the course of the subject, I hope to be able clearly to demon- 
strate the advantages derivable from the double walls. 

In planting the vines (the best period for which is in the 
autumn), I would recommend theii' being placed two feet apart, 
or as nearly so as may be practicable ; but the distance must, in 
some degree, be regulated by the underground arches, for the fol- 
lowing reason — that the stems of the vines are intended to be 
introduced through them, and to be carried up between the two 
walls, thus affording them that protection from the effects of frost, 
which is so desirable during the progress of forcing ; and if each 
vine, when planted, is sufficiently long to reach the top of the 
fi-ont sash, so much the better. In training them, let the fii'st be 
brought immediately under the rafter, and the next under the 
centre of the Hght ; and so on throughout. It is quite necessary 
that the wires, under the roof, to which, they are to be tied in the 
course of their growth should be at least sixteen inches from the 
glass. I know they are commonly placed much closer to it, but the 
consequences arising from the practice are highly injurious to the 
vines. It matters not what sort of glass may be used, for the same 
objection exists to a closer proximity, as the leaves in their growth 
soon come into immediate contact with it, and are cousecjueutlv 



6 



A TREATISE ON THE 



scorched, and the evils produced thereby will soon become 
obvious and multiplied. In the first place, the injury thus in- 
flicted checks the sap, and prevents it performing its proper 
functions ; secondly, every injured part not only harbours insects, 
but very frequently engenders red spider and thrip, whereas, when 
the vines are trained at the distance before-named, a free circu- 
lation of air passes between them and the glass, preserving the 
foliage in a healthy and vigorous state, and in every way assisting 
nature in the performance of her mysterious duty. 

Towards the end of March or the beginning of April the sap will, 
without artificial heat, begin to circulate through the newly-planted 
vines, and the buds will then of course be immediately put forth, all 
of which must be removed with the exception of the two leading 
ones, and the safest method of doing it is by pressure between the 
finger and thumb, as the use of the knife would, at this early stage, 
cause them to bleed. When the two reserved buds have broken, and 
grown a foot or rather more in length, cut off the weakest, thus 
leaving only one shoot to each vine. And here it may be as well 
to remark, for the information of the learner, that this shoot will 
in due time become a part of the bearing-stem ; consequently, 
as it progresses, great attention must be paid to tie it in regu- 
larly and carefully, and every precaution must be taken to pre- 
vent its being bruised or broken, either by handling it roughly, 
or tying it too tightly. In the latter case, be sure to give plenty 
of room for expansion. The matting used for the purpose should 
never be drawn tight, as, by doing so, if the brittle shoot is not 
broken by it, the circulation of the sap will be obstructed, which 
is an evil to be carefully avoided. When the shoot is grown 
long enough to reach the top of the house, it will be necessary to 
stop its further progress by pinching it off, and, provided it is in 
as vigorous a state as it ought to be at this period, it will very 
shortly thrown out a lateral branch at the bud nearest the extreme 
end, where it has so recently been stopped, which lateral branch 
must be allowed to grow until it has attained the length of twelve 
or fourteen inches ; then it should be stopped, by taking a joint 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



7 



off at the point, as recommended in tlie case of the principal 
shoot. It may be necessary to inform the uninitiated of the 
object of this process. I will, therefore, endeavour to explain it. 

The crop of the next season entirely depends upon the buds 
along the rod remaining in a quiescent state, and the only means 
of keeping them so is the encouragement given to the sap to flow 
freely to the part to which the lateral branches or buds are pro- 
ceeding, and thus preventing the buds from being prematurely 
excited. There will also be either a direct or lateral shoot thrown 
out from the base of these important buds, but they must not on 
any account be permitted to make much increase ; and, in order 
to prevent it, stop them beyond the first joint, and this must be 
repeatedly done if their growth should render it necessary ; and 
the same rule must be observed with the lateral shoots at the end 
of the vine also. 

In proceeding with the culture of the young vines, only mode- 
rate heat, merely acting as a little assistance to nature, will be 
required. Therefore, a temperature not exceeding sixty degrees 
during the night, and ranging from seventy to eighty degrees in the 
day, will be sufficient during the whole period of their growth. At 
this time, the frequent use of the syringe in the evenings will be 
very beneficial. Take care, however, to admit air early in the morn- 
ings, in order to allow any excess of moisture to escape, and also 
to prevent the tender foliage being scorched by the rays of the sun. 

In order to encourage the free rooting of the vines, let the 
border be occasionally forked over, to the depth of an inch or 
two. Be most cautious, however, in doing it, to avoid disturbing 
the young fibres ; and, as the work is proceeded with, give a 
good supply of water from a pot with a rose, provided the border 
is dry. Be particular, likewise, as you go on, not to trample on 
the portion fresh watered, as it is desirable that the soil on the 
surface should be hollow, to give access both to sun and air. 

Many persons entertain an opinion that the border may, 
without detriment to the vines, be laid under some light crop, but 
I am perfectly convinced that such a plan is the very worst economy 



8 



A TREATISE ON THE 



that can be practised, for even a bed of flowers would be suffi- 
cient to exclude from the roots below the action of the air and 
sun, which are necessary to their well-doing. 

When the leaves have acquired the faded appearance of a 
forest-tree in November, and the wood is perfectly hard and ripe, 
then, and not till then, is the proper time to give them rest by 
exposure. At this time the vines should be pruned, and, in doing 
so, it is the practice of many persons to cut the young rods down 
to within a bud or two of the original stem, thus deferring the 
time of bearing for another year, with a view of invigorating and 
establishing the vines ; but I am perfectly convinced, and pre- 
pared to say from experience, that, provided the foregoing in- 
structions for the treatment of them up to this period have been 
fully and carefully observed, they will be in a fit state to carry 
out a good crop the next season. My own system of pruning is 
as follows : — Shorten the young rods two feet from the top down- 
wards. By doing this, the vines, in the next forcing, will have 
room to shoot forth and bear their fruit without coming in con- 
tact with the top or back of the^ house. The side lateral shoots 
should be also cut o£P to within half an inch of the bud from 
the base of which they proceed. When this is done, the next 
thing will be to arrange them for their season of rest, or win- 
tering ; a period of six weeks, at least, should be allowed for the 
purpose, and as much longer as possible. 

And now I hope to be able to prove the second advantage 
given by the double walls. The only thing required is to slide 
out the upright sashes from the outer wall, which must be 
done from the end of the house, then disengage the vines from 
the wires to which they have been trained, and dispose of 
them by securing them to the pillars, or any other convenient 
plan which may suggest itself. This can be readily done without 
the vines undergoing that twisting and distortion so hable to 
bruise and injure them when taking them out of houses, as they 
are usually built. In the present case all that difficulty is re- 
moved, without any danger of checking a free circulation of the 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



9 



sap; and when the vines are thus disposed of, and the front 
sashes slid into the groove of the inner wall, the house is not only 
enclosed and iu a fit state to apply to any other purpose, but the 
top lights, by projecting over the outer wall, will be a great advan- 
tage to the dormant vines by the protection thus afforded them 
from heavy rains, and also preventing icicles from hanging about 
them, whereby, according to my belief, they receive more injury 
than from any other cause. A free circulation of dry and cold 
air is highly benefi.cial to them ; at the same time, a protection 
from too much moisture is necessary, and, by adopting the above 
plan, they will have the advantage of both. 

Having thus arranged the vines for their season of rest, it may 
not be here out of place to enlarge a little on the different pur- 
poses to which the vacant house may in the mean time be applied ; 
for instance, where early vegetables are required, such as French 
beans, cucumbers, or perhaps strawberries, you are thus afforded 
every facility of producing them. The same facility is afforded 
with flowers ; a supply of roses, pinks, lilacs, &c., can easily be 
had : in short, the advantages to be gained by judicious manage- 
ment of the unoccupied vinery will be considerable, and it will, 
I think, be admitted that they prove more than equivalent to the 
trifling additional expense of the building. The period at which 
the grapes are required to be ripe must be the guide as to the time 
of taking the dormant vines again into the house. Por the pur- 
pose of commencing forcing them, always bear in mind that 
five clear months must be allowed to bring the fruit to maturity. 
Therefore, supposing the grapes are required for consumption on 
the 1st of July, forcing must, of course, be commenced on the 
1st of February ; and the first thing to be done with the vines 
will be to wash the rods with the following mixture, viz. : — To 
three quarts of rain-water add two ounces of soft-soap, four 
ounces of sulphur, and two ounces of tobacco ; boil all well to- 
gether for half an hour, and when cold it is fit for use. After 
applying this wash to the vines, replace the upright sashes on the 
outer wall, and carefully train the vines on the wires as heretofore. 



10 



A TREATISE ON THE 



Much diversity of opinion exists as to the best method of pro- 
tecting the border during the period of forcing, and almost endless 
are the opinions entertained, and methods adopted, to carry out 
the desired object. After much observation, added to practical 
experience of many different plans, I have found the following to 
answer best : — Before any internal heat is applied to the vines, 
proceed with the border as follows. Leaves of hard-wooded forest- 
trees, such as oak, beech, &c., which have been previously col- 
lected in a large heap and well trampled together, will soon 
become heated, and settle into solid masses. In using these 
leaves, take from the centre of the heap those that are the driest 
and most firmly cemented together, and in as large pieces as pos- 
sible, and from four to six inches thick. Begin by forking the 
surface of the border lightly over, and when the earth is thus 
loosened, the masses of leaves should be laid entirely over the 
border, lapping one over the other, on the same principle as the 
roof of a house is slated, for the purpose of preventing the rain 
penetrating. Over the solid pieces of leaves add six inches of 
dry loose ones, and on the top of them one or two inches of fine 
mould, to prevent the wind from blowing the leaves about, as well 
as to give a clean and neat appearance. The temperature for the 
first fortnight or three weeks, during the night, should not exceed 
from fifty to fifty-five degrees, allowing an increase of ten degrees 
throughout the day. Syringe freely with tepid water until the 
buds are excited ; then cease syringing altogether, but still keep 
a moist atmosphere by throwing plenty of water on the paths. 
At this stage increase the heat five or seven degrees ; admit air 
upon every available occasion, but at the same time give it in mo- 
deration, as a sudden admission of cold air is as injurious as an 
excess of heat, both of which must be carefully guarded against. 
When the young shoots have grown to the length of about two 
inches, you will then be able to ascertain with certainty those 
showing the best bunches, which, of course, the grower will select, 
as far as it is practicable. In leaving the required supply, do so 
at as regular distances along the rod as possible, leaving certainly 



CULTUEE OF THE VINE. 11 

not more tlian twelve or tliirteen shoots, as shown in the following 
illustration ; — 



When the proper selection is made, cut away all the other 
shoots close to the rod with a sharp knife, in order to enable the 
wounds to heal over quickly, which will then present a neat ap- 
pearance, as well as allow an unchecked and free circulation of 
the sap, and also prevent any future outbreak of shoots. It may 
not be amiss here to remark, that I consider what we call the 
" Spur" system of pruning decidedly the best, and for this reason, 
that, by following that method, no more wood is grown than is 
absolutely necessary for the well-doing of the present crop of fruit, 
and at the same time for ensuring the desired quantity for the 
following year, and that of the best description; whereas, by 
growing a fresh supply of rods annually, the quality of the present 
crop is not only materially deteriorated, but, by the growth of the 
new rods, the house becomes crowded, and in consequence that 
free circulation of air, so essential to the grape in all stages, is 
considerably lessened from the superabundance of foHage, inter- 
cepting to a great extent both light and air. Another advantage 
also arises from the spur system. The double demand made upon 
the vine, by bearing its fruit for the present season and feeding 
young rods for the following, at one and the same time, greatly 
accelerates its exhaustion and decay, both of which are obviated 
by the plan I venture to recommend. 

Having thus digressed, I will now proceed with directions for 
carrying out the present crop to perfection. When the young 
shoots are sufficiently advanced, stop each, leaving one joint, or 
eye, above the fruit, and one bunch to each branch. When the 
bunches are in flower, keep the house somewhat closer, with 
a humid atmosphere, giving air, of course, if the temperature 



12 



A TREATISE ON THE 



ranges higher than seventy-six degrees. Much is gained by very 
early thinning : it is desirable to commence almost as soon as the 
berries are set. By so doing, you prevent the bunches from be- 
coming crowded, and thus avoid doing injury to the remaining 
berries, by a touch either from the fingers or scissors, as it is 
most desirable, even at this early stage, to preserve the bloom 
entire, and plenty of space must be allowed between each berry 
so as to give room for expansion. Clip out all the smallest and 
inside berries; but much must be left to the discretion of the 
grower as regards the extent of thinning, as it would be difficult 
to give any specified rule to act upon. 

Great vigilance must be observed in removing the lateral shoots 
as they appear, in order to throw all the strength of the vine into 
the growing fruit, and also to prevent the overcrowding and 
darkening of the house ; due care must be taken in admitting air 
freely, giving a little as early in the morning as is consistent with 
safety ; attending strictly to the cleanliness of the house, always 
keeping it in a pure and healthy state; and, if so done, little 
damage may be apprehended from the injurious effects of red 
spider; but if, from hard forcing, these troublesome insects 
should make their appearance, they may be greatly subdued by 
washing the interior walls of the vinery with a mixture of hot 
lime, and a sufficient quantity of sulphur to give a shght tinge 
of yellow to the mixture. In using the wash, be careful to avoid 
touching the hot pipes or flues with it, as the vapour arising there- 
from is most injurious. The degree of heat should be continued, 
as before directed, until after the grapes have perfected their 
seeds, during which period the berries will remain almost sta- 
tionary in size ; but as soon as nature has performed this important 
office the growth will be most rapid. A sHght increase of heat 
may now be given without fear of injmy, provided the grapes are 
required at any given time. From the time they begin to change 
colour until they are thoroughly ripe, admit air freely, but, if the 
weather is cold, let it be given with due care and consideration. 
During the time of colouring a small portion of air should be ad- 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



13 



mitted from the top of the house throughout the night, still main- 
taining an internal temperature of not less than sixty degrees. 
After the grapes are well ripened, a greater portion of air must be 
given both by day and night ; but the greatest care ought to be 
taken to keep the house as dry as possible, wliich will ensure 
a longer continuance of the crop in a state of perfection, as well 
as strengthen and invigorate the wood, and also will add greatly 
to the perfecting of the buds which are to be the main source of the 
crop for the following season. Every alternate lateral shoot should 
be cut off to within an inch of the principal bud, wliich can now 
be done with safety, and without fear of exciting the permanent 
buds. The remaining lateral shoots will be sufficient, at this 
stage of growth, to carry out the circulation of the sap, and, as 
the wood becomes more ripened and the leaves naturally decay, 
the remaining lateral shoots must be pruned ; thus giving every 
assistance to the crop, as well as the bearing portion of wood for 
next year. It is the practice of some to pick off the leaves con- 
tiguous to the buds surrounding the fruit, with the idea of ad- 
mitting more sun and light j but I am confident the practice is 
not only detrimental to the fruit, but to the wood also, as it pre- 
vents that free circulation of sap which nature has ordered for the 
maturing of every bud so connected with the leaves ; the latter, 
indeed, being part and parcel of the said buds, from which the 
fruit is to emanate the forthcoming season. 

Grapes, in their growth, are subject to many enemies, in the 
shape of insects ; neither are they exempt when they arrive at 
maturity. Wasps and flies are most destructive to them. The 
best guard against these troublesome insects is by covering the 
spaces where the lights are opened with perforated zinc or Hay- 
thorn^s netting. Continue to give plenty of air; and the same 
system must be pursued in other respects, as previously directed, 
until the crop is all gathered, and the wood thoroughly ripe, when 
the vines must then have a season of rest. The border at this 
time must be attended to by giving it a good dressing, three or 
four inches thick, of equal quantities of weU-rotted farm-yard and 



14 



A TREATISE ON THE 



sheep manure, taking the utmost care, when forking it in the 
border, not to break the roots ; at the same time placing the fresh 
manure as near, or even amongst them, as is consistent with safety. 
Slightly cover it over with the forkings of the border, and in this 
state allow it to remain until the time arrives for forcing, when 
the directions previously given for covering with leaves, &c., 
must be resorted to. 



15 



© 



© 



e 



CULTUEE OF THE VINE. 



15 



CHAPTER II. 

CULTURE OF THE MUSCAT GEAPE. 

Much anxiety and disappointment is often experienced in growing 
the Muscat Grape^ and^ -in consequence of repeated failures, it is 
altogether discarded from many places where its presence would 
greatly enhance the value of the dessert ; for, after all, there is no 
grape that will bear a competition with it when grown as it ought 
to be ; but it is too frequently the case to see these grapes present 
a miserable appearance, the berries tiiinly set in the bunch, poorly 
swelled, and badly coloured. To avoid the latter evils, I will en- 
deavour to state, as clearly as I can, the result of my practice, 
and which has been, in a great measure, attended with tolerable 
success. 

The house, like all other vineries, as before stated, should 
occupy as high a situation in the garden as will ensure good 
drainage, free and pure air, and be at the same time sheltered 
from the north and east winds. Prom the plan of the house 
given, it will be observed that the vines are planted in the centre 
of the house, which I consider the only sure method whereby 
good fruit can be from year to year obtained. In certain situa- 
tions, and favourable seasons, good Muscats may be had by 



□ 



Si 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



15 



CHAPTEE II. 

CULTURE OF THE MUSCAT GRAPE. 

Much anxiety and disappointment is often experienced in growing 
the Muscat Grape, and, -in consequence of repeated failures, it is 
altogether discarded from many places where its presence would 
greatly enhance the value of the dessert ; for, after all, there is no 
grape that will bear a competition with it when grown as it ought 
to be ; but it is too frequently the case to see these grapes present 
a miserable appearance, the berries thinly set in the bunch, poorly 
swelled, and badly coloured. To avoid the latter evils, I will en- 
deavour to state, as clearly as I can, the result of my practice, 
and which has been, in a great measure, attended with tolerable 
success. 

The house, like all other vineries, as before stated, should 
occupy as high a situation in the garden as will ensure good 
drainage, free and pure air, and be at the same time sheltered 
from the north and east winds. Trom the plan of the house 
given, it will be observed that the vines are planted in the centre 
of the house, which I consider the only sure method whereby 
good fruit can be from year to year obtained. In certain situa- 
tions, and favourable seasons, good Muscats may be had by 



16 



A TREATISE ON THE 



planting the vines in the common way; but where doubt exists, 
and fruit in perfection is required, I can with confidence recom- 
mend the following directions : — We will suppose a house entirely 
devoted to this peculiar grape. I begin with the vinery border, 
a portion of which is inside as well as outside of the house ; the 
space occupied, therefore, from the back part of the border inside 
to the front part outside ought to be eighteen feet, and with a 
slope of two feet at least from the back to the front. In making 
the border, proceed with it in every particular the same as before 
recommended, taking every precaution to attend to the drainage. 
When the border is complete, and settled to its proper level, pro- 
ceed to plant the vines in the centre of the border within the 
house, and train them up at the same distances as represented in 
the plan. Much good is derived from planting them thickly : it 
enables the grower to train every alternate vine up, and the other 
down, thereby entirely covering every inch of glass surface. 
Allowing each vine to carry ten or twelve bunches, you thereby 
secure a much greater weight of fruit than by any other plan, and 
at the same time each individual vine is not overcropped, which 
greatly assists them to properly ripen the allotted number in the 
greatest state of perfection; and the equal dispersion of fine 
bunches throughout the house gives a rich and luxuriant appear- 
ance. It may be argued, that their being so thickly planted would, 
in a short time, produce confusion ; but, by spurring or cutting 
them back every year to one eye, they preserve a neat, close, and 
compact appearance. The best proof I can offer is, that one 
house, under my own cultivation, which has received the above 
treatment, is now in as fine a state as possible ; indeed, every year 
there is a decided improvement, both as regards the quantity and 
quality of the produce. I ought, perhaps, to have before ob- 
served, that, with a sufficient number of well-grown vines in pots, 
a house could be filled with a crop of excellent fruit the first year, 
without the slightest detriment to the forthcoming crops. I know 
some persons will sneer at such doctrine, but I only recommend 
to others what I have found to succeed well with myself. There 



CULTUEE 0^" THK VINE. 



17 



can be but one opinion as to the propriety of allowing the vines 
the first ,year to break or shoot forth as nature dictates, only 
assisting them at this stage with a moderate warmth, should the 
weather be unpropitious. The night temperature should not be 
allowed to range higher than fifty-five degrees, with an increase 
during the day of ten or fifteen degrees, from the commencement of 
their showing signs of vitality. Avoid upon all occasions a draught 
or current of cold air, which is most prejudicial; and greater 
injury is often done from this cause than may generally be sup- 
posed. At the same time, I strongly advocate a free admission 
of air, but which ought to be given upon principle, viz., allowing 
it to pass off from the top of the house, where the temperature is 
at all times the highest, consequently the impure portion of the 
air has the more need of escape at the point of collection. If any 
one will take the trouble to place himself immediately under 
the top lights, wdien the sun in the morning throws his cheering 
and powerful rays on the glass, he will at once perceive the ne- 
cessity there is of admitting air at that point, and also of the care 
which ought to be taken in opening the lights by little at a time, 
particularly if the outward air is cold and piercing, for then even 
a small admission of the chilling blast is sensibly felt on the per- 
son. How much more must it be felt by the young and tender 
shoots ! The evils arisfag from a glut or sudden rush of air 
being at once admitted are incalculable. When the sifn is very 
powerful, with a cold nipping wind (which is often the case even 
in the months when we should expect a warm and balmy breeze), 
I would rather allow the internal atmosphere to rise ten degrees 
higher, than admit air from the front of the house in conjunction 
with the top, preferring to give all that is available from the upper 
part before resorting to other means. Many good crops of grapes 
are destroyed for the want of due care being given 1^ proper and 
judicious ventilation ; and this is often attributed to the border, 
the situation, or any other cause but the right one. 

The treatment of the Muscat in pruning and thinning will in 
no wise differ from that before recommended for the Hamburgh 

c 



18 



A TREATISE ON THE 



and others. It is the practice of many to keep a very high tem- 
perature for this most delicious grape, but such, in my opinion, is 
erroneous. A uniform and progressive heat, as the vine advances 
in growth, is certainly requisite, and during the period they are in 
bloom a somewhat closer atmosphere than was before required is 
essential. There is a peculiar delicacy, if I may so term it, in the 
formation of the seed-vessels of this grape, which renders it difiicult 
to set, unless the temperature is well regulated, by keeping it pure, 
rather moist, and well ventilated; but by no means steam the 
house at any stage of their growth, more particularly now, as it 
only tends to increase that precarious weakness which they na- 
turally undergo. Previously to, and during, the time they are in 
bloom, be careful to remove every superfluous lateral shoot, so as 
to admit as much light and air as possible. I do not mean to de- 
prive them of more than is proper ; but at this period the growth 
is generally most rapid and vigorous, and two days' inattention 
would very much encumber and darken the house. 1 by no means 
recommend the bunches to be exposed to the strong glare of the 
sun's rays, as they would receive great injury thereby ; but it is 
highly beneficial that the permanent leaves, which protect the 
bunches, should be allowed full exposure. Another objection 
exists in allowing the lateral shoots to grow beyond their allotted 
space : much moisture is thereby detained, which not only acts pre- 
judicially to the bunches, but also causes the leaves to be scorched, 
and hence arise red spider and disfiguration. As soon as the 
berries are set, lose no time in thinning. With this as with other 
grapes the sooner that operation is performed the better, which 
will cause the berries to be much finer. Throughout the whole 
period of their growth they must be supplied plentifully with tepid 
water at the roots, occasionally giving a thin decoction of sheep- 
manure wat«r. Provided the border was made according to the 
directions before stated, water may be given freely without fear of 
damage from stagnation ; but few plants are more susceptible of 
injury from too damp and retentive a soil than the Muscat grape : 
hence, therefore, arises the necessity of strictly following out the 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



19 



instructions laid down with reference to the draining of the 
border. 

Do not syringe the vines after the buds have advanced to the 
length of two inches^ even should the red spider make its appear- 
ance,, but from which, with due care, little damage need be appre- 
hended. The same application may be resorted to with success 
as, in the case of other vineries, is recommended in the former 
chapter. From the time the grapes are in bloom until they are 
ripe, the temperature by night ought to be kept about sixty-five 
degrees, and by day from seventy-six to eighty or eighty-five 
degrees, but never let it attain the latter without admitting plenty 
of air. As soon as the grapes begin to change colour for ripen- 
ing, the top lights must be a little way open by night, regulating 
the space according to the weather ; at the same time maintaining 
the above internal temperature by the application of fire-heat 
should it be needed. You will thus have a pure, sweet, and 
healthy climate, which will tend greatly to the swelling, colouring, 
and flavour of the berries. As the fruit progresses to perfection, 
the less water will they require at the roots ; but do not allow the 
border to become too dry, which will always be the case when the 
ground is full of small cracks. When water is given to the inside 
border, be careful to give it on clear days, and at times when 
plenty of air can be given to the house, as it enables the vapour 
arising from watering to pass off without lodging on the foliage, 
which would be the case if done on a dull dark day, when but 
little air can be given. 

Pursue the same uniform treatment until the grapes are tho- 
roughly ripe, when less heat must be given, keeping the tempe- 
rature at forty-five to fifty degrees, and as dry as possible. But 
to ensure a longer continuance of the fruit remaining in a perfect 
state, the following is the method I have adopted for years, and 
with the most successful result : — Previous to the grapes beginning 
to shrivel, and when they have received all the nourishment they 
can obtain from the vine, cut the branch off, with the bunch 
attached, at the distance of one eye before the bunch, and imme- 

c 2 



20 



A TREATISE ON THE 



diately seal the end of the detached piece with seaHng-wax. Tie 
the wood to a rod with the bunches suspended; each bunch to 
hang perfectly free, so as not to touch one another : for the con- 
venience of carrying them, no more than two dozen bunches 
should be attached to one rod. When the whole are cut, sealed, 
and tied, convey them with the utmost care (choosing, of course, 
a fine day) to a dry room in a dwelling-house ; the rods to be 
suspended from the ceiling, or supported on tressels, only taking 
care to allow a small space between each, just enough to prevent 
touching one another. If proper care be taken in occasionally 
looking them over to remove any decayed berry, they will remain 
in a perfect state for months. I generally cut those I wish to 
preserve about the middle or latter end of December; they con- 
tinue good until the end of March (previous to which time the 
young crop is fit to cut). By allowing the fruit to remain on the 
vines after the leaves show signs of decay, it by no means im- 
proves, only tending to shrivel ; and even in the best glazed and 
ventilated houses grapes are not exempt from damp, whereas, by 
removing the fruit from light, air, and moisture, they retain in 
a wonderful degree their size and flavour, which are objects worth 
attending to, enabling gardeners to exhibit excellent fruit every 
day throughout the dark months of winter. In thus removing 
the crop, the vines are greatly relieved; and it enables the grower 
to treat the vines in the most advantageous manner for their 
future bearing, which must be done by withdrawing all artificial 
heat, and admitting air freely, both by day and night. 

The interior as well as the exterior border must now receive 
a good dressing of equal quantities of sheep-fold and well -rotted 
farm-yard manure. Eemove with care the surface-mould of the 
border to the depth of one or two inches, or as much as can be 
cleared off until the roots are visible, when a covering of the above 
mixture must be placed immediately on the roots to the depth of 
four or five inches. Water the inside border copiously over the 
manure; frequently repeat the watering tlu'oughout the winter 
and spring, in order to wash the strength of tlie manure amongst 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



21 



the roots. It will not be necessary to water the outside border^ 
as sufficient moisture will be had from rain. The dressing of 
manure should be done at least a month before the vines are 
pruned^ as by so doing it gives the vines the ability of shooting 
forth numerous young roots amongst the newly-laid-on manure, 
which is of immense importance to their well-doing the following 
season. The reason I recommend their not being pruned imme- 
diately the crop is taken from them is, that, however well -matured 
the wood may be, and however many of the principal leaves may 
be in a state of decay, it will be observed that numerous small 
lateral shoots, at the extreme end, have still some vitality left ; 
therefore those lateral shoots will keep up a sufficient circulation 
to enable the vine to throw out roots with greater facility, which, 
if once started, will continue to increase with rapidity, notwith- 
standing the branch is in a state of repose. 

I will now say a few words relative to mildew, which has been 
of late the subject of much animadversion. I have read and heard 
much of it, but never felt the ill effect of it until the first week in 
August last. A fine crop of grapes, in a most luxuriant state, 
within the short space of twelve hours, was completely covered as 
with a shower of snow ; fruit, leaves, and branches, being alike 
aff'ected. When the disease attacks the vines thus suddenly, the 
remedy, of whatever kind, must be as promptly used. It is 
generally allowed that sulphur is almost the only cure ; but much 
depends, even with that, on the method of its application. Whe- 
ther mildew is produced by atmospheric or other causes is not at 
present my subject. To remedy the evil is the object. My prac- 
tical experience is as follows : — Mix sulphur with water to the 
consistency of paint, and take a brush, made from shreds of 
Eussian matting, which is soft, and leaves more of the mixture 
on the vine than one of bristles ; with the wash paint the whole 
of the wood, footstalks of the leaves, and the stem of the upper 
part of the bunch, all of which can be done by a careful person, 
without doing any injury to the fruit. At the same time wash 
the interior walls of the house with hot lime, mixed with an equal 



22 



A TREATISE ON THE 



quantity of sulpliur : keep the house for a few days rather close. 
The effect produced on the vines from this treatment was evident 
in a few hours ; the mildew was completely checked, nay, cured, 
and the result was as fine a sample of beautifully-coloured and 
well-swelled fruit as could be wished for. The wood was also in 
excellent condition, and the foliage perfect to the last. As a fur- 
ther proof of the efficacy of this plan in making a perfect cure, 
I will instance a house of grapes, some in bloom, and others as 
large as peas, in the first week of November 1850. These were 
attacked in the same manner with mildew, and treated precisely 
as the others, and with the same successful result. My opinion 
is, that, in applying the sulphur to the wood as recommended, the 
strength of that powerful agent is imbibed into the pores, and it 
consequently acts on the whole plant to which it is applied, and 
enables it to repel the evil effects of the outward air. The wash- 
ing of the walls, also, in a great measure, purifies the internal 
atmosphere. It will at once be acknowledged how infinitely pre- 
ferable this method of applying the sulphur is to the way in 
whicli, in many cases, I have seen it used, where the bunches 
were entirely covered with it, not only giving the fruit an unsightly 
appearance, but in reality making it unfit for tlie table. 



Flate VIL 




CULTURE OF THE VINE, 



23 



CHAPTEE III. 

CULTURE OF THE VINE IN THE OPEN AIR. 

There appears to me to be a great want of good management in 
the cultivation of the vine in the open air. This, I think, is much 
to be regretted, when we take into consideration the numerous 
eHgible places where it might be grown to great advantage, and 
profit to the cultivator ; for instance, against farm-buildings, and 
other such erections, which are for the most part quite bare. In 
some instances the soil will be found suitable to the growth of this 
fruit ; but where such is not the case, a border of ten or twelve 
feet wide must be formed, adhering to the directions previously 
given in making the borders for the vineries. In order to pre- 
vent cattle getting to them, a paling could easily be put up at 
a trifling expense. When the border is made, proceed with the 
planting, selecting the following sorts — Sweet "Water, Muscadine, 
Esperion, and Black Cluster, aU of which are well suited for the 
open air. In order to preserve a neat appearance, and also to 
prevent the necessity of disturbing by constant nailing the walls 
or boarding to which the vines are to be trained, I would recom- 
mend the use of galvanized nails, which can be purchased at 
a very reasonable price. Let the vines be arranged two feet apart, 



24 



A TREATISE ON THE 



as represented in Plate VIL^ and at every other row of nails 
plant a vine^ which ought to be done in the autumn, should the 
border be ready then, but not later than the month of March, so 
as to enable them to strike out young fibres before the buds begin 
to swell. In pruning, leave only two buds at a foot-and-a-half 
from the ground : those under them should be cut off with a sharp 
knife, after they are grown to the length of a foot or so. Select 
the strongest, and remove the other. Train the young shoot to 
the nails, but be careful not to tie them too tight, which would 
impede the free circulation of the sap. When the shoot has 
reached to the top of the wall or building, — which it wiU very soon 
do provided proper care and attention is taken to give water when 
the weather is dry, and occasionally to loosen the surface by 
lightly forking the portion of the border nearest to the stems, — 
you must cover the whole surface with a thin dressing of well- 
rotted manure to prevent too rapid evaporation, and also to screen 
the roots from the too powerful rays of the sun. Pinch the shoot 
off when it has attained the required height, and follow the direc- 
tions previously given for the treatment of those vines planted in 
the vineries. It will, however, require some degree of care and 
attention in keeping the lateral shoots removed so as to admit the 
sun and air to the wood, in order to get it well ripened before the 
cold weather sets in, as much of the success depends on the wood 
and eyes being well matured. When this end is fully accom- 
plished, prune off the stems of the lateral shoots nearly close to 
the eye from which they proceed. The vines will now be in 
a state of repose, and will therefore require nothing further beyond 
a good dressing of rotted manure being forked into the border. 
As the spring advances they will begin to bud forth, when care 
must be taken to select the strongest shoots, leaving them at 
regular distances, as shown in the sketch. 

It would well repay the grower to take pains in thinning each 
bunch properly, only one of which must be left on each shoot ; 
for, by pursuing this plan, a greater weight of fruit will be ob- 
tained, as well as a better quality, than if they were left in 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



25 



a crowded state. The operation of thinning is not so formidable 
as it may at first appear. A very little practice will ensure com- 
plete success, particularly to those who take an interest in the 
well- doing of the crop : in warm and favourable situations, fruit 
little short in size and flavour to those grown under glass can thus 
be obtained. The chief enemies to be feared are the birds and 
wasps. Care, therefore, must be taken to guard against their 
ravages, by using netting, and also glass wasp-traps, which are 
very cheap, and require nothing but a little beer or sugared 
water. The same method may be successfully followed as I have 
recommended in the vineries, in cutting the grapes with a portion 
of the wood, and sealing the end with wax. 

The operation of pruning may be performed at any time after 
the fruit is cleared oflP, and the wood well ripened and leafless ; 
but it is not so well to defer it beyond the latter end of January, 
for this reason, that the wound made with the knife becomes well 
healed, and prevents bleeding in the spring ; whereas, if left be- 
yond that time, the vine is very often much weakened from the 
loss of sap, hence puny wood, yellow foliage, and an indifferent 
crop. In pruning, cut each shoot back to two eyes from the 
main stem, one of which only is to be left to produce fruit. The 
object in leaving two is to guard against accident, in case of one 
being injured previously to their budding forth. 

The same system is to be pursued from year to year. The 
main stem will, of course, increase in size ; but it will be many 
years before the spurs or side branches assume an unsightly 
appearance, or occupy much space, provided the " spur system''^ 
of pruning is carefully carried out : at the same time an excellent 
crop of fruit may be thus secured every season. 



26 



A TREATISE ON THE 



CHAPTEE IV. 

CULTURE OF THE VINE IN POTS. 

In selecting the eyes, take none but well-matured ones, and those 
from the strongest and best ripened wood. Prepare them by 
cutting immediately under the bud, in a slanting direction, each 
way, as figured below, leaving three-fourths of an inch of wood 



before and behind the eye. If the vines are required for early 
bearing the following season, the eyes should be put in before the 
middle of January ; but if intended to be planted in vine borders 
or against walls, a later period in commencing will answer equally 
well. But in either case they should be treated as foUows : — 
Prepare thirty-two or twenty-four sized pots. Put in them plenty 
of crocks for drainage, and over them pieces of light rough soil, 
up to within two inches of the top of the pot, one inch of which 
fill up with fine leaf and other mould, in equal proportions, 
adding to the mixture a little silver or other sharp sand. Place 



i 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



27 



the eyes regularly on the surface, allowing a clear space between 
each, to ensure their easier removal when struck. Cover them 
over to the depth of half an inch with the same light compost as 
used immediately under them. Place the pots containing, the 
eyes in a frame, pit, or other suitable structure, plunged into 
a bottom-heat of not less than eighty degrees, nor above ninety 
degrees, with a surface-heat of at least seventy degrees. They 
will soon emit roots, and the buds also will quickly make 
their appearance ; and at this stage a little water will be liighly 
beneficial. When they have grown to the height of two or three 
inches, pot them singly into sixty-sized pots, taking the utmost 
care when doing so not to injure them. In addition to loam, leaf- 
mould, and sand, a little well decomposed stable-manure will tend 
much, even at this early stage of their growth, to strengthen and 
give vigour both to the roots and shoots. Place them again in 
a good bottom-heat, being careful to maintain a sweet and pure 
atmosphere; occasionally a little water will be necessary, but keep 
them rather dry than otherwise. As soon as the pots are filled 
with roots, repot them into thirty-two-sized ones, using at this 
potting a greater portion of decomposed manure, and so much the 
less of vegetable mould. Put them, when potted, into a vinery, 
or other convenient house, where a temperature of from seventy 
to eighty degrees is maintained. Place the pots on shelves, and 
as near the glass as practicable. The great object to be observed 
is to keep them in a free growing state, air being a most essential 
point, which ought to be admitted freely, but, of course, not de- 
pressing the internal heat below the previous given standard. 

When these plants are fully furnished with roots, transplant 
them finally into a No. 8 size. For this potting use a compost 
as follows : — Let one half consist of the surface spit from old 
pasture, chopped into pieces of about two inches square. Let 
the other half be well-rotted farm-yard manure, which, previous 
to being mixed with the mould, should be turned over frequently, 
adding to it a little quick-lime, to destroy worms, &c. When 
properly mellowed by exposure to the sun and air, mix both to- 



28 



A TREATISE ON THE 



gether^ adding a little sand, if the soil contains none. In crocking 
the pots, take care to place the pieces so as to allow the water to 
pass off freely, and place over them pieces of turf to prevent the 
fine mould from getting amongst the crocks, and clogging up the 
hollow spaces, it being most desirable they should be quite free 
for the escape of moisture, and for the admission of air to the 
roots ; in potting press the compost tolerably firm, previously 
taking care that it is sufficiently dry not to knead. As soon as 
potted, place them in the house, where they are to remain to 
complete their growth, training them under the glass, but not 
nearer to it than sixteen inches : the temperature should be in- 
creased from five to ten degrees, keeping a moist atmosphere. 
Use the syringe freely in the evenings, being careful to give air 
early in the mornings, to allow any excess of moisture to escape, 
in order to protect the tender foliage from being scorched by the 
rays of the sun. 

When the vines have grown to the length of eight or twelve 
feet it will be necessary to stop them, and if they are as healthy 
and strong as they ought to be, they will, immediately after being 
pinched off, tlirow out lateral shoots from the buds at the extreme 
ends : and as it is of great importance to prevent the other prin- 
cipal buds from breaking (I mean those upon which the crop is 
depending) for tlie following season, allow the top lateral to grow 
to the length of six or eight inches before pinching; but the 
lateral shoots, which are emitted from the base of the fruiting 
buds, you should stop beyond the first joint. Water freely at the 
roots, and occasionally with a decoction of manure from the 
sheep-fold. When the wood is thoroughly well matured and 
perfectly ripe, remove the potted plants from the house, placing 
them under a south wall until required for early forcing, or other- 
wise ; protecting the roots with some light substance from the 
effects of frost, and secure the rods to the wall. 

The following directions are alone applicable to the forcing of 
young vines raised from eyes, and treated in the manner pre- 
viously described. The period at which the grapes are required 



CULTUEE or THE VINE. 



29 



to be ripe must be the guide as to the time of commencing 
forcing. Prune the vines as soon as they are leafless, by merely 
cutting them to the length required ; when pruned, wash them 
with rain-water, using a little soft soap and sulphur, that has 
been previously boiled together, which would cleanse and other- 
wise benefit the wood and buds. The temperature for the first 
fortnight should range from fifty to fifty-five degrees, and gra- 
dually increase it to seventy degrees. Syringe freely with tepid 
water, and keep a genial moist atmosphere until the vines are 
broken, when less moisture will be required. From the constant 
humidity which has been kept up, and the frequent use of the 
syringe, only a Httle water at the roots will be required ; but, if 
dry, give them sheep-manure water. In order to prevent the 
mould from becoming impure it will be necessary to secure a 
quick and free drainage, which would be greatly assisted by 
raising the pots on two separate pieces of wood or brickbats, 
placed under each edge ; you will thus also have a more general 
circulation of heat round the pots. When the buds are regularly 
broken, and each shoot advanced to the length of six inches, 
prepare to plant the vines into a trough, as shown in the plan. 
The advantage to be derived is immense, by securing to them all 
the benefit of a border, independent of giving every root and 
branch an equal temperature, which is so essential to promote 
their perfection. Pirst place upon the laths forming the bottom 
of the trough, a layer of pieces of turf of about three inches 
square, to prevent the fine mould from being washed down ; next 
put a layer of two or three inches deep of the following compost, 
viz., equal quantities of rich turfy loam and rotted manure from 
the farm-yard, with the addition of a little sand. Proceed to 
remove the vines from the pots by turning the ball upside down 
on the palm of the hand, having a convenient bench on which to 
rest the hand and ball whilst cautiously removing the crocks, and 
any objectionable soil, or worms, and taking the utmost care in 
so doing not to injure the roots. When so prepared, place the 
ball on the surface of the soil in the bottom of the trough. Pro- 



30 



A TREATISE ON THE 



ceed with another vine, and so on till the whole are done, leaving 
a space of about three inches between the ball of each to be filled 
up with the same compost as used under them. Cover the sur- 
face of the roots about one or two inches deep ; the soil, previously 
to being put round the roots of the vines, must be warmed to the 
same temperature as the house. As soon as all are tied in their 
proper places, a good syringing will much assist them ; but do 
not water at the roots for a few days, except it be absolutely 
necessary. If any water is given, let it be done by pouring it 
immediately on the balls. 

Before a w^eek has expired after removing the vines into the 
troughs, they will begin to show the benefit they are deriving 
from the change. When sufficiently advanced, stop each shoot 
one joint beyond the fruit, and leave only one bunch to each, 
and from eight to twelve to every vine, according to their strength. 
A heavier crop would deteriorate both from the size and colour 
of the berries. A plentiful supply of water will now be neces- 
sary, w^hich can be given abundantly without fear of injury from 
stagnation ; provided the directions given for the formation of 
the trough have been strictly attended to. 

Much is gained by very early thinning, which must be carried 
out according to the instructions given in the previous chapters. 
The general treatment will require to be the same as described in 
Chapter I., with this exception, however, that the troughs will 
require almost a daily supply of water after the vines are fully 
established. When the fruit has arrived at maturity, and has all 
been cleared off, the vines may be removed with care, and placed 
against a wall, protecting the roots from the sun, &c. They will 
produce a fair crop very early the following season, but certainly 
not equal to what they do the first year, either in quantity or 
quality, but whether they are intended for bearing or otherwise, 
the sooner they are taken out of the house after the crop is cut the 
better, that the succeeding young ones may be put in their places. 

Before concluding this small treatise, I wish to add a few 
words in proof of the advantages I have myself derived from a 



CULTURE OF THE VINE. 



31 



house similar to the one figured in Plates YIII. and IX. I 
therefore can recommend it with confidence as being most useful 
for manifold purposes, not only where other vineries are employed, 
but also to the amateur and nurseryman. The centre part is ad- 
mirably adapted for growing a stock of young vines for sale or 
otherwise; and it can also be used as a propagating bed for 
flowers or early vegetables, more particularly if a hot-water pipe 
were carried through the centre of it. But the most valuable use 
to which the house can be applied is the opportunity afforded of 
growing Muscat grapes in conjunction with others in troughs, 
and I am convinced that one trial would be sufficient to prove to 
the grower the immense advantage gained by transplanting the 
vines from the pots to mature their fruit. The trough system 
might justly be said to possess all the requisites of a vine border, 
viz., drained, heated, and covered with glass. With these ad- 
vantages the grower is enabled to produce Muscats with as great 
success as any other kind, and by commencing forcing them in 
the beginning of December, ripe fruit of this much-esteemed 
variety can be had by the first week in May. Another most 
material point is gained by producing the Muscat in the 
troughs. You are thus enabled to keep a constant supply of 
fruit for the table without forcing the permanently planted vines, 
which is an object of great importance, as it enables the gardener 
to give them a longer season of rest ; and by so doing the vines 
will become stronger and better every year, and consequently the 
fruit will be of a superior quality, and can be well ripened in 
time to succeed the early forced ones. In this way it is quite 
possible to have ripe Muscat grapes throughout the year, a desi- 
deratum which many have pronounced unattainable. 



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